CHAP. 2.—THE NATURE OF THE OLIVE, AND OF NEW OLIVE OIL.
Fabianus maintains that the olive will grow[1] neither in
very cold climates, nor yet in very hot ones. Virgil[2] has
mentioned three varieties of the olive, the orchites,[3] the
radius,[4] and the posia;[5] and says that they require no raking
or pruning, nor, in fact, any attention whatever. There is no
doubt that in the case of these plants, soil and climate are the
things of primary importance; but still, it is usual to prune
them at the same time as the vine, and they are improved by
lopping between them every here and there. The gathering of
the olive follows that of the grape, and there is even a greater
degree of skill required in preparing[6] oil than in making
wine; for the very same olives will frequently give quite
different results. The first oil of all, produced from the raw[7]
olive before it has begun to ripen, is considered preferable
to all the others in flavour; in this kind, too, the first[8] droppings of the press are the most esteemed, diminishing gradually
in goodness and value; and this, whether the wicker-work[9]
basket is used in making it, or whether, following the more
recent plan, the pulp is put in a stick strainer, with narrow
spikes and interstices.[10] The riper the berry, the more unctuous the juice, and the less agreeable the taste.[11] To obtain a
result both abundant and of excellent flavour, the best time to
gather it is when the berry is just on the point of turning
black. In this state it is called "druppa" by us, by the
Greeks, "drypetis."
In addition to these distinctions, it is of importance to
observe whether the berry ripens in the press or while on the
branch; whether the tree has been watered, or whether the
fruit has been nurtured solely by its own juices, and has
imbibed nothing else but the dews of heaven.
1. This is the case. We may remark that the tree will grow in this
country, but the fruit never comes to maturity.
2. Georg. ii. 85, also ii. 420.
3. Probably the Olea maximo fructu of Tournefort. It has its name
from the Greek o)/rxis,, the "testis," a name by which it is still known in
some parts of Provence.
4. Or "shuttle" olive. Probably the modern pickoline, or long olive.
5. Probably the Olea media rotunda præcox of Tournefort. It is
slightly bitter.
6. This is so much the case, that though the olives of Spain and Portugal are among the finest, their oils are of the very worst quality.
7. It does not appear that the method of preparing oil by the use of
boiling water was known to the ancients. Unripe olives produce an excellent oil, but in very small quantities. Hence they are rarely used for
the purpose.
8. Called "virgin," or "native" oil in France, and very highly esteemed.
9. Sporta.
10. "Exilibus regulis." A kind of wooden strainer, apparently invented
to supersede the wicker, or basket strainer.
11. It is more insipid the riper the fruit, and the less odorous.